Making Process

Initial Staining Experiments

I started by testing two types of stain on spare wood: walnut and dark wood. The walnut gave this lovely warm effect that I really liked , so I went with that one. Before getting into the marquetry work, I stained the entire top with the walnut stain. It looked beautiful, and I was really happy with the contrast.

Marquetry Process

The marquetry work was challenging. While I managed to get the hand and letter parts right pretty quickly, the triangles were trickier - took a few tests to get the perfect fit. After placing all the pieces, I was worried because it didn't look as neat as I'd hoped. I had to keep reminding myself that this was just part of the process and sanding would even everything out.

During sanding, I added extra glue to hollow corners so the sanding dust would settle In hollow spaces, helping create an even, perfect finish. The results after sanding were beautiful, but then I ran into another challenge: the stain had sanded off unevenly. I tried staining everything again, but the contrast was too subtle. I was really disappointed, I decided to sand it back to the original color. Thankfully, since the marquetry was a few millimeters deep, I could sand without worrying about damaging it.

Finding the Right Finish

After some experimentation, I tested several options:

• Red water-based stain

• Second option

• Danish wood oil

• Linseed oil

The linseed oil really stood out - it brought out this beautiful warm tone that I loved. I went back and forth about whether to keep the top light with rough staining or go darker. My gut was saying go darker, but I was hesitant. Finally, I tested the red water-based stain, and it looked perfect. I applied it to the top and was really happy with the results. I decided to leave the oiling until the end because linseed oil takes longer to dry, and I was working against time.

Thread Design and Braiding

Learning the Braiding Technique

Getting the braided pattern right took some trial and error since I couldnt find any information about it online. My first few attempts didn't hold - the threads kept untwisting themselves back to straight. I tried using water and glue to make them stay, but that wasn't the solution. The real trick turned out to be in the twisting technique: twist two threads in the same direction, then twist them together in the opposite direction. This creates tension that holds the braid naturally, no glue or water needed.

Improving the Process

My braiding method evolved as I worked:

1. Initially: Cutting threads first, then braiding (very time-consuming)

2. Improved method: Using the table size as a guide, wrapping threads around it, then cutting one end open The second method was much faster, though untangling threads was still frustrating.

The first day was slow as I figured out the best approach, but by day two, I had found my rhythm. It became quite peaceful work, though it took longer than expected. I ran into an unexpected issue when I realized I'd used a different bundle of threads from the others - some were pure white while others were warm white. I kept going, planning to figure it out later, but it took 5 full days to complete all the braiding.

Dying the Threads

The Turmeric Dying Process

After some people questioned whether the threads would stay white, and consulting with Oscar, we decided to dye them with turmeric - a meaningful choice since yellow is very important in Jainism. I researched extensively since this was my first dying project.

The recipe I chose used:

• Turmeric

• White vinegar

• Water

I tested two methods:

1. First test: Boiled turmeric water and vinegar for 30 mins, threads soaked overnight

2. Second test: Boiled turmeric water and vinegar for 30 mins, cooled for 5 hours, threads soaked for 2 hour

The second method gave a darker shade, so that's what I went with. The process was:

1. Soak threads in vinegar solution for 30 minutes

2. Squeeze out excess water

3. Prepare turmeric dye

4. Soak threads for 2 hours

5. Rinse with cold water

Addressing Dye Issues

The dye came out lighter at the folds and inner parts, creating a gradient effect. The white and warm white threads took the dye differently, as expected. To fix this, I decided to mix the threads randomly and intuitively using a thin wire needle, similar to crochet techniques. This created a more natural, unplanned look.

Final Assembly

Attaching Threads to Table

For a clean finish, I used a wooden frame to sandwich the threads between it and the table top. The process was:

1. Lay bubble wrap on table

2. Flip table

3. Distribute threads evenly (checked by rough counting)

4. Staple to hold in place

5. Check placement by flipping

6. Add additional staples where needed

7. Carefully drill holes avoiding thread twisting and damage

8. Screw down frame

Final Touches

Since the inner mechanism was made with different types of wood, I first tried staining it but wasn't satisfied. I eventually decided to paint the entire mechanism black to match the table stand, including the screws at the bottom. This gave everything a harmonious, finished look.